Life on Water: The Fascinating Story of Ganvie, Benin’s Floating Village

The story of the tour of Ganvie, also known as the Floating village in Benin Republic was part of a recent road trip from Nigeria to Benin, Togo and Ghana facilitated by the Accraweizo team led by Nigeria’s  travel and tour Ambassador Mr. Ikechi Uko.

The story of Ganvie.

Entering the road that leads to Nokoué Lake, which in turn guides you to the enchanting village of Ganvié, often referred to as the Floating Village or the Venice of Africa, you are greeted by bustling markets on both sides. 

These markets are teeming with life, offering a vibrant display of goods ranging from fresh produce to intricate crafts, each stall telling a story of the local culture.

Nokoué Lake, a natural wonder, is the lifeblood of Ganvié, a village established in 1717 after a historic conflict between the Ajatado and Abomey Kingdoms. Spanning an impressive 115 square kilometers, Ganvié is home to about 35,000 people, creating a unique community that thrives on water.

At the lake’s edge, a diverse crowd gathers daily, each person with their own purpose. Tourists, eager to explore the famed floating village, mingle with locals, market vendors, and even beggars, all converging for their daily activities. 

The air buzzes with excitement as speedboats and canoes, laden with people and goods, crisscross the water, creating a dynamic scene.

On the lake, life unfolds in a rhythm dictated by the water. Women, elderly folks, and men engage in various tasks—fishing, while the women’s job who are not allowed to fish is to gather the day’s catch, or setting traps using dry palm fronts. 

The lake itself undergoes a fascinating transformation throughout the year. During the rainy season, the water is fresh and reaches depths of 3 to 4 meters. In the dry months, the lake becomes salty and shallow, only about 1.5 meters deep. For nine months, the water remains salty, and for three months, it turns fresh and inviting.

Floating on the lake are patches of water hyacinth, interspersed with a few plants growing along the edges devoid of  plastic bottles, polythene bags, take away packs often seen in similar villages floating on the lake.

Among the floating village’s many attractions is Lovers Street, a popular spot demarcated by vibrant blue and red buoys. The village boasts an array of houses, from single-storey wooden structures to multistorey buildings, some built on artificial land with bricks and blocks. These wooden homes require maintenance, with the wood being replaced every decade.

Social status is evident in Ganvié, where those with financial means live in what are considered modern houses, while others reside in more modest structures. Land ownership on the water is formalized through the village chief, who assigns and sells plots to prospective landlords.

Ganvié is a self-sufficient community, complete with schools, hospitals, restaurants, an art center, barbershops, and playgrounds for recreation. 

The village boosts of two markets, Morning and floating market, a daily spectacle, sees women bringing in fresh food items early in the morning from 5pm where Fishermen get their daily supplies before embarking on their daily chores. 

These markets, vibrant and bustling, resemble those on land, with hawkers and food vendors seeking patronage as they paddle their canoes from street to street.

Despite the village’s primary occupation being fishing, fish is not sold in the market since every household partakes in this activity. Each family owns three canoes—one for the father’s fishing endeavours, one for the mother’s daily chores, and one for the children’s school activities and errands.

Our guide, Herman, shared insights into the village’s relationship with the government. While the government collects taxes, it also provides essential services like healthcare, education, and mosquito nets to combat the mosquito-infested waters.

The residents of Ganvié are known for their hospitality, welcoming visitors with open arms. However, they hold a shared memory of past ridicule from those on land who mocked their distinctive walking style. Accustomed to moving in canoes and swimming, the villagers’ walk, akin to a crab’s, seemed unusual to outsiders.

Children in Ganvié are taught to swim from birth, earning them the nickname “fish” due to their exceptional swimming skills. Most of the village’s population practices Voodoo, a reflection of their rich cultural heritage, while a few adhere to other beliefs, like Christianity. 

Ganvié, with its unique lifestyle, vibrant markets, and resilient community, offers a fascinating glimpse into a world where life flows harmoniously with the rhythm of the water.